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Dry-Stone Retaining Wall

Stack shaped field stone without mortar into a battered, through-stoned wall that drains freely and outlasts anything you could build with a bag of cement.

Dry-stone retaining walls holding cultivated terraces on a hillside
Photo: Ji-Elle · CC BY-SA 3.0. Reference photo of a comparable build, not the exact plan below.
Estimated cost
$0 – $40 if stone is on site; tools are the only real cost
Skill level
Intermediate
Time
1 – 2 m of finished wall per person per day

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Tools

  • Walling hammer and stone chisel
  • Crowbar
  • String line and batter frame
  • Safety glasses and heavy gloves
  • Wheelbarrow

If you don't have it

  • No large face stones? Build lower and battered, and use gabion baskets of small rubble for the bottom course.

Materials

  • Field or quarried stone in mixed sizes, roughly 1 tonne per running metre
  • Large flat foundation stones
  • Small hearting stone for the wall core
  • Long through-stones spanning the full wall width
  • Heavy coping stones for the top course

Dimensions & cut list

A mortarless retaining wall 1.2 m high, battered into a slope. These are the reference sizes from Appropedia / dry stone walling associations — scale them to what you have, but keep the ratios.

Base width600 mm for 1.2 m of heightBase = half the height, minimum
Batter (lean into the bank)1:6
Foundation trench200 mm below grade onto firm subsoil
Through-stonesEvery 1 m along the wall, at mid-heightThese tie the two faces together — a wall without them peels apart
Coping stonesSet on edge, tight, across the full wall width
Backfill drainage150 mm of gravel behind the whole face
Maximum unretained height1.5 m without engineering

Take this list to the yard

  • ≈ 1.2 tonnes per linear metreFace stones, roughly rectangular
  • 0.2 m³ per metreHearting (small packing stone)
  • 0.2 m³ per metreGravel for drainage
  • 1 setString line, batter frame and mason's hammer

Step by step

Step 1 of 6

1

Sort the stone first

Separate into foundation, building, hearting, throughs and copes before you start. Sorting once saves hours of hunting per course.

Swipe or use arrow keys

Why mine failed

The ways this build usually goes wrong, and what fixes it.

  • Wall face bulges then collapses

    CauseNo through-stones tying the faces together

    FixSet a through-stone every metre at mid-height, spanning the full wall width. Two independent skins with rubble between will always peel apart.

  • Wall pushes out after heavy rain

    CauseWater building up behind it

    FixBackfill with 150 mm of gravel over the whole face and keep the batter at 1:6 leaning into the bank. Dry stone works because it drains — never seal the back.

  • Stones rattle loose within a year

    CausePoor hearting and running joints

    FixPack the middle tightly with small stone and always cross the joints — one stone over two, never one over one.

  • Wall settles unevenly

    CauseFounded on topsoil

    FixDig 200 mm down to firm subsoil and set the biggest stones as the base course, tilted slightly into the slope.

Safety notes

  • Stone crushes fingers and feet — steel-toed boots and gloves, and never place hands under a stone being lowered.
  • Chip stone with safety glasses on; flakes travel fast and far.
  • Do not undercut a bank you are working beneath; batter the excavation or shore it.
  • Retaining walls over 1.2 m high should be designed with drainage and surcharge checked by someone experienced.

Source & attribution

This plan is our build-step write-up of work documented by Appropedia / dry stone walling associations. The original design and documentation belong to them — go read the source before you build.

Dry stone wall

Local adaptations

What builders changed to make this work where they live.

  • No adaptations shared yet for this plan.
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