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Protected Spring Box

Cap a natural spring at its eye with a sealed masonry box and pipe it to a raised tap, so people collect flowing water that never touches the contaminated surface.

Inspection of a protected spring source feeding a pipe
Photo: REACH: Improving water security for the poor · CC BY 2.0. Reference photo of a comparable build, not the exact plan below.
Estimated cost
$400 – $1,500 with community labour
Skill level
Intermediate
Time
1 – 2 weeks

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Tools

  • Shovels, picks and buckets
  • Masonry trowel
  • Pipe wrench
  • Hacksaw
  • Level

Short a tool or material? Builders below have often swapped something local in — read Local adaptations before you buy anything.

Materials

  • Cement, sand and hard stone or blocks for the box
  • Washed gravel and coarse sand for the infiltration face
  • Puddled clay or plastic sheet for the cut-off seal
  • Galvanised or HDPE outlet pipe, overflow pipe and a tap
  • Lockable steel or reinforced concrete cover, fitted with a screened air vent

Dimensions & cut list

A masonry spring box capturing a hillside seep so it delivers clean water by gravity. These are the reference sizes from Appropedia / WASH field practice — scale them to what you have, but keep the ratios.

ExcavationDig back to the eye of the spring, 1–2 m into the slope
Box internal size1.0 × 1.0 × 1.0 m typical
Wall thickness150 mm masonry or 100 mm reinforced concrete
Intake faceOpen into gravel — never seal the water side
Gravel pack behind intake300 mm of 20–40 mm stone, then 150 mm of coarse sand
Outlet pipe40–50 mm, set 100 mm above the floorSilt settles below the outlet
Overflow pipeSame size as outlet, 50 mm below the lid
Clay cut-off cap500 mm puddled clay over the box and 2 m uphill
Diversion ditch5–10 m uphill of the box, 300 mm deep
Fenced exclusion zone15 m radius, no livestock, no latrines within 30 m uphill

Take this list to the yard

  • 6–8 × 50 kg bagsCement
  • ≈ 1.2 m³Stone or blocks
  • 0.5 m³Gravel 20–40 mm
  • 0.3 m³Coarse sand
  • 3 mGI pipe and screened outlet elbow
  • 1Lockable steel or reinforced concrete lid

Step by step

Step 1 of 6

1

Find the true eye of the spring

Dig back into the slope until the water comes out of undisturbed ground, not out of loose surface soil. Protecting the wrong point protects nothing.

Swipe or use arrow keys

Why mine failed

The ways this build usually goes wrong, and what fixes it.

  • Flow drops after the box is built

    CauseThe spring eye was sealed with masonry or mortar

    FixThe water face must stay open into gravel. Break out any mortar over the eye and rebuild that face as a dry gravel pack — water needs to enter freely.

  • Water turns muddy after rain

    CauseSurface water entering over or around the box

    FixAdd the clay cut-off cap over the box and 2 m uphill, and cut the diversion ditch above it. Muddy water after rain always means surface ingress, not a spring problem.

  • Tests positive for contamination despite the box

    CauseLivestock or latrines inside the protection zone

    FixFence 15 m around and move latrines at least 30 m downhill. A perfect box below a cattle path is still unsafe water.

Safety notes

  • A protected spring is only as safe as its catchment. Test the water and keep latrines, graveyards and cattle uphill of it out of the area.
  • Never let the cover be left off or unlocked — an open box is an open contamination route.
  • Support any excavation into a wet slope; saturated soil collapses easily.
  • Clean the box with the washout at least twice a year and after any flood, and chlorinate it afterwards.

Source & attribution

This plan is our build-step write-up of work documented by Appropedia / WASH field practice. The original design and documentation belong to them — go read the source before you build.

Spring protection

Local adaptations

What builders changed to make this work where they live.

  • Field note · Uganda

    Water committees add a second tap and a cattle trough fed by the overflow, which keeps animals well away from the collection apron.

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