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Gabion Check Dam for Gullies

Stack wire baskets filled with stone across an eroding gully to slow runoff, trap silt and let the channel heal itself into a planted terrace.

Stone-filled wire gabion baskets stacked to form a check dam
Photo: Pastorius · CC BY-SA 3.0. Reference photo of a comparable build, not the exact plan below.
Estimated cost
$120 – $400 per structure if stone is local
Skill level
Intermediate
Time
3 – 5 days per dam with a work party

Not yet verified

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Tools

  • Fencing pliers
  • Crowbar
  • Shovels and picks
  • Wheelbarrow
  • Line level or A-frame

If you don't have it

  • No galvanised gabion mesh? Hand-woven baskets from 3 mm wire or brushwood-and-stake bunds work in low-flow gullies; expect to rebuild after big storms.

Materials

  • Galvanised hexagonal gabion mesh baskets, typically 2 × 1 × 1 m
  • Hard angular stone 100 – 200 mm, enough to fill the baskets
  • Binding and bracing wire
  • Gravel or geotextile for the upstream filter face

Dimensions & cut list

A gabion check dam across a 4 m gully, 1 m high, to slow runoff and trap sediment. These are the reference sizes from Appropedia / soil and water conservation practice — scale them to what you have, but keep the ratios.

Gabion baskets2 × 1 × 1 m standard units
Dam height1 m, with a spillway notch 300 mm deep at the centre
Keyed into banks1 m into each side wall of the gully
Foundation key500 mm below the gully bed
Apron downstream2 m of stone-filled mattress, 300 mm thickWithout an apron the falling water scours out the toe and the dam drops in
MeshDouble-twisted hexagonal, 3 mm galvanised wire, 80 × 100 mm openings
Rock fillAngular stone 150–250 mm, hand-packed
Spacing between damsEvery 1 m of fall along the gully

Take this list to the yard

  • 6 for one 4 m damGabion baskets
  • ≈ 8 m³Angular rock fill
  • 15 kgLacing wire
  • 10 m²Geotextile or grass sod filter layer
  • As availableVegetation for the trapped sediment wedgeGrass or vetiver planted upstream is what makes the structure permanent

Step by step

Step 1 of 6

1

Read the gully first

Site dams where the gully narrows and there is sound rock or firm subsoil in the bed. Space them so each dam's crest is level with the toe of the one upstream.

Swipe or use arrow keys

Why mine failed

The ways this build usually goes wrong, and what fixes it.

  • Water has cut round the end of the dam

    CauseNot keyed into the gully banks

    FixKey the structure at least 1 m into each bank and set the spillway notch clearly lower than the wing ends, so overflow goes over the middle.

  • Dam has dropped and tilted downstream

    CauseToe scour — no apron

    FixLay a 2 m stone apron downstream and key the foundation 500 mm into the bed. Falling water digs its own hole in one storm.

  • Baskets sag and rocks spill out

    CauseRounded fill and loose lacing

    FixUse angular 150–250 mm rock, hand-pack the faces, and lace every seam continuously with proper lacing wire.

  • Silt washes straight through the mesh

    CauseNo filter layer

    FixLay geotextile or thick grass sod on the upstream face, and plant the trapped sediment wedge as soon as it forms.

Safety notes

  • Never work in a gully when rain is falling or threatening upstream — flash floods arrive with no warning.
  • Cut mesh ends are sharp and springy; wear heavy gloves and eye protection when lacing.
  • Rolling stone crushes feet. Boots, clear hand signals and nobody standing below the load.
  • A poorly keyed or undersized dam concentrates flow and can cut a deeper gully than the one you started with.

Source & attribution

This plan is our build-step write-up of work documented by Appropedia / soil and water conservation practice. The original design and documentation belong to them — go read the source before you build.

Check dam

Local adaptations

What builders changed to make this work where they live.

  • Field note · Tigray, Ethiopia

    Community work parties build a stepped series of small gabions rather than one big dam, which is far more forgiving when a single structure is overtopped.

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