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Pour-Flush Latrine Pan & Water Seal

A cast pan with a water-seal trap turns a smelly pit into a clean, fly-free, odour-free toilet — flushed with two or three litres poured by hand.

A pour-flush latrine with its squat pan and offset pit covers
Photo: Ajay Tallam from Milpitas, USA · CC BY-SA 2.0. Reference photo of a comparable build, not the exact plan below.
Estimated cost
$25 – $120 including pan, trap and pipe
Skill level
Intermediate
Time
2 – 3 days plus pit digging

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Tools

  • Trowel
  • Bucket
  • Pan mould or purchased pan
  • Spade
  • Hacksaw
  • Level

Short a tool or material? Builders below have often swapped something local in — read Local adaptations before you buy anything.

Materials

  • A ceramic or cast cement pan with a smooth glazed or polished surface
  • A U-trap holding a 20 – 30 mm water seal
  • 100 mm PVC or cast channel to the pit or septic tank
  • Cement, sand and reinforcement for the squat slab
  • A small water container and dipper beside the pan

Dimensions & cut list

A cast-concrete pour-flush pan with water seal, over a single offset pit. These are the reference sizes from SuSanA — scale them to what you have, but keep the ratios.

Pan size430 × 350 mm at the rim
Pan slope25–30° to the trapFlatter than this and it will not clear with 1.5 litres
Water seal depth20 mmDeeper wastes water; shallower lets odour and flies through
Trap bore75 mm
Flush volume1.5–2 litres poured briskly
Pipe to pit100 mm at a fall of 1:20, straight run under 3 m
Pit1.2 m diameter × 3 m deep, lined in the top 1 m
Pit setback30 m from any well, and downhill of it

Take this list to the yard

  • 1 bag per pan and slabCement
  • 0.1 m³ eachSharp sand and 10 mm stone
  • 1Reusable pan mouldOne good mould pays for itself over 20 pans
  • 3 m100 mm PVC pipe
  • 1 m²3 mm wire mesh for the slab
  • 1 setWater container and dipper at the pan

Step by step

Step 1 of 6

1

Dig and line the pit

Site the pit at least 30 m from any well and downhill of it. Line the upper courses so the pit cannot collapse under the slab.

Swipe or use arrow keys

Why mine failed

The ways this build usually goes wrong, and what fixes it.

  • Pan does not clear with a normal flush

    CausePan slope too flat or the surface too rough

    FixCast at 25–30° with a well-polished mould surface. A rough pan needs twice the water and never stays clean.

  • Smell and flies come up through the pan

    CauseWater seal dried out or too shallow

    FixKeep the seal at 20 mm and pour a cup of water in whenever the latrine has been unused for days.

  • Pipe to the pit blocks repeatedly

    CauseToo little fall, or a bend in the run

    FixLay 100 mm pipe at 1:20 in a straight run under 3 m, and keep solid waste and cloth out of the pan.

  • Nearby well water tests contaminated

    CausePit too close or upslope of the well

    FixSite the pit at least 30 m from any water point and downhill of it, and line the top metre. If it is already built too close, decommission the pit rather than the well.

Safety notes

  • Never enter an unsupported pit; shore it or dig in stages.
  • Keep the pit 30 m and downgradient from wells and springs.
  • Fresh pit contents give off dangerous gases — never light a flame over an open pit.
  • Wash hands with soap at a station right by the door.

Source & attribution

This plan is our build-step write-up of work documented by SuSanA. The original design and documentation belong to them — go read the source before you build.

Pour-flush toilets and water seals

Local adaptations

What builders changed to make this work where they live.

  • No adaptations shared yet for this plan.
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